Well folks, it seems that Christopher Bailey has pulled it out of the bag once again! Another perfectly formed collection of heritage (Burberry buzz word!) with a modern-day twist.
The A/W 2012 Burberry Prorsum menswear show opened in with a downpour. A digital one, naturally, in homage to both Burberrys embrace of technology and the English winter, which won't be a white one, it will be a wet one. Again.
As the first models strode down the runway the first thought in my mind was 'gentry'. Bailey has modernised the practical 40s husband, the type who wears a suit to work, trousers with a crease just so, a jaunty tie (because he's a fun guy really) and an ever-present umbrella.... just in case. Suits were presented in various shades of charcoal grey, double-breasted and with a modern, slim cut. An ever present use of texture in Burberrys styling made each look stand out; a polka-dot shirt and tie in the same shade became an optical illusion, while leather studded driving gloves were married with striped jumpers.
Accessories were daring- the now trademark 'show hat', flat cap as in A/W 2011, reborn in turquoise, patent leather brogues in cherry red, shopper bags in glorious yellow.... need I go on?!
The Burberry staples- the trench, the quilt and the duffle made up the outerwear (The parka, after being the centre of attention last season sat this one out.) Silhouettes were once again a crowning moment; shrunken puffer coats coupled with velvet suits. A play on knitwear as outerwear, gave us oversize knits over immaculately tailored suits. Charcoals gace way to a rich palette of autumnal goodness- chocolates, plums, mustards, teals, adapted from the tribal shades of S/S.
Two surprising additions were a crystallized cat jumper and a fox print shirt, the likes of which Burberry haven't produced before. Artisan techniques and forest creatures.... it almost seems like a natural pairing now!
The shows final call was set to an electric guitar rendition of 'O Sole Mio'- a fusion of the old with the new which is, in essence, what Burberry is all about. Mr. Bailey, I salute you.
